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Corset Lingerie Biography

Dame Vivienne Westwood has always been a mass of contradictions. She hates, with an unswerving passion, consumerism and excess. Yet she has built a fashion empire. Ask her what she would like to change in the world and she says, "I'd get rid of advertising. Consumption is the biggest propaganda. It's ruined the world." Yet she herself devises beautiful ad campaigns, with pictures by superstar German photographer Jürgen Teller.

Westwood has always been this way. Her clothes are not just pieces of cleverly draped and reconstructed fabric, they are statements. She wants women to feel powerful, not just want to be thin.

Fiercely independent and self-sufficient, she now leaves the designing of the main collection to her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, while she concentrates on her activism. "I'm proud to be called an activist," she says. "I have a lifetime of ideas about how to make the world a better place. I'm always worried. I wake up in the middle of the night. But it's good because I sort things out. It's been a build-up, having this public face and the opportunity to speak."

Earlier this year, she protested against fracking. Most recently, even though thoroughly English, she was adamant that Scotland should vote "Yes" to independence. Her message to the Scots was, "In England, there is hardly any democracy left. The government does what it wants. You, Scotland, can have the government you want." She has always been a rebel.

Westwood is credited with creating the '70s punk revolution with her then-lover and

business partner Malcolm McLaren. He invented the hype and put together the bands, the Sex Pistols, the anarchy, while she designed the look: the safety pins, the ripped T-shirts, the slogans. The McLaren-Westwood partnership was one of love/hate. Angry and volatile, competitive. McLaren, whom she met in 1965, was cruel to her and made her cry every day - until now, she says, she can't cry any more.

With her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, in July 2014.

With her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, in July 2014. Photo: Rex/Australscope

We meet at Westwood's headquarters at

Battersea, in inner-south London. There are mood boards, 18th-century prints of powdered ladies, and a large cutting table. At 73, she is full of raw energy, wearing a black dress with shoulders that flap down and point like a naughty witch. Her hair is platinum white; her eye make-up is pinkish-red. We're here to talk about her new biography, Vivienne Westwood.

the stories about the young westwood are some of the most fascinating in the book. It's like she came into the world old and wise, and as she grew up became more childlike and impulsive. She was born near Glossop in Derbyshire, where her father worked in an aircraft factory, and she was always a fighter for justice. Sometimes she would own up to doing something wrong that she hadn't done, to get a sense of fairness for other people. "I was just interested to see what would happen."

Westwood had an epiphany when she first saw a picture of the crucifixion. "That's when I realised the world was full of cruelty and hypocrisy. I couldn't understand how we let that happen."

"I'm glad I was born in that period. I just think it's dreadful now: children inundated with all this rubbish. Especially fuchsia-coloured plastic and pink bicycles for little girls. It's like bubble gum. It's awful. Compare that to a child growing up with nothing but crawling on a floor with little Delft tiles; you know, those Dutch tiles where there'd be a windmill or a falcon. Wonderful things to look at.

"I didn't have anything around me. No art. And my mother always read to us. That was important, how I could discover art. I recall a window in the sweet shop. In the middle of the window was a book, a Bible with a pre-Raphaelite picture of God the Father with a lantern. It was beautiful. I'd never seen anything like that before and I knew my mother would get it for me for Christmas. She would have done anything for us."

She and her mother, Dora, were incredibly close. Dora gave her everything she had and was constantly telling her she was proud of her up until the day she died in 2008. Her father came from a long line of cobblers. All the children went to sleep with her mother singing.

Westwood's first husband, Derek, a factory worker, was a devoted father to Ben and a general good egg. But it somehow wasn't enough. "I wasn't happy. I just wasn't content looking after my child [Ben]. I needed to know more of the world. He was very good-looking and charismatic. I think of Derek with great affection, but I grew out of him."

Derek wanted to be a pilot and that's what he became, whereas Westwood wanted to be an intellectual. "I think it's absolutely important that people stay friends."

Did she stay friends with McLaren?

"No, I did not. Malcolm was impossible. Malcolm was so bad to me. Malcolm was, 'If you are not with me in any way, you are against me, you are my enemy, you are taking the bread from my mouth.' I didn't put it in the book, but he was very jealous of me. He would say things like, 'She's just a seamstress' and 'Vivienne would not be a designer if she'd never met me.' "

Malcolm was insecure?

"Yes. And he wanted success, Malcolm. That was his downfall because he never found out about anything, he just invented everything. He had a good mind and I liked the way he put things together."

When they were together, did they fight every day? "Yes. He used to drive me mad. He used to be provocative and selfish and spiteful, so spiteful. He would try to undermine your confidence and say something that would make you feel bad. All the time.'

She describes how whenever she went out to do something, anything, he would be bereft. She once found him going crazy walking down the lines in the middle of the road. Needy and cruel.

"He was similar to [Sex Pistols singer] Johnny Rotten," says Westwood. "I call it jiving with people's emotions. Come close to me and as soon as you're close you'll get pushed away. When you're far away, they'll pull you back. Then they'll get frightened when you get too close.

"He treated Joe exactly the way we've been describing. He was terrible to his own son."

When McLaren died in 2010, he didn't leave his only son a penny. "But at the same time he gave him all these adventures. He would have been a good schoolteacher. One day he did a day at school where he told them all to bring in things from the land, then he would make them have a conversation among all the objects they'd brought in. He made pandemonium, but the kids were excited."

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